WALLS Standard framing is fine to support a tiled wall. The wall must be strong enough to hold
up with the additional weight of tile, adhesive and grout. Use plaster, gypsum board or
moisture resistant portland cement backer boards for most tiling jobs. Plywood and
Gypsum based products are not recommended for wet areas.
COUNTERTOPS Plywood Underlayment:
Total thickness must be at least 3/4 inch and securely bonded. If a new or additional
surface is needed to increase the thickness to 3/4 inch, use approved underlayment grade
plywood or cement backer board. Fasten at 6 inch intervals along the edges and studs
with 1-1/2 inch galvanized roofing nails for cement backer boards or 1-1/4 inch (minimum)
underlayment nails or screws for plywood.
">FLOORS
Wood Subfloors:
Check to see that your floor joists (studs) are no more than 16 inches on center.
Anything more than this will not provide a stiff surface to tile.
A double wood floor of 1-1/4 inch thickness (two 5/8 inch sheets of exterior
grade plywood) is the construction recommendation. These two layers should
be overlapped with offset joints. In some installations, subfloors may be stiffened
with a 1/2 inch cement backer board. This should be placed with 8d (1-1/2 inch
minimum) cement coated nails or screws every 6 inches around the perimeter, and
every 8 inches in all directions across the floor. Space sheets with 1/8 inch gaps a
nd offset sheets so joints do not coincide with plywood subfloor. Surface should
not dip or rise more than 1/8 inch over any 10 foot span. (see diagram below)
Concrete Subfloors: Concrete must be clean and free from waxes, sealers, curing compounds, etc. If any of these are present, the tile will not adhere to the surface.
To test for these agents, place a few drops of water on the surface. If the water beads, one of the above contaminants is present and must be removed with a floor stripper.
Check the surface for flatness by laying a straight edge that is at least four feet long on the floor. The floor should not dip or rise more than 1/8 inch in a 10 foot span. Larger depressions can be leveled using a self leveling cement filler or latex fortified patching compound.
Existing Ceramic Tile Floors: Check to see that all existing tile is well bonded. Make sure that it is clean and free of
all loose materials and remove any soap or wax residue with a strong degreasing agent
(such as TSP). The new floor you lay down will only be as good as the surface on
which you tile. Never set tile over a loose or dirty surface.
Asphalt Tiles, Sheet Vinyl Or Linoleum Floors: Existing floors of this nature can be used as a substrate as long as the tiles or sheets are
solidly adhered to the floor, and that there is proper firmness and flatness throughout.
If the floor is sound, firm and in good condition, strip floor of all sealers, waxes and dirt
with a floor stripper. Caution! Never sand or abrade vinyl asbestos tiles.
Expansion Joints: Expansion joints must be left around the perimeter to allow for floor movement. Leave
a space of 1/4" between the wall and the subfloor/adhesive/tile. Areas larger than
24" x 24" require expansion joints within tiled area. This space is then sealed with a
flexible sealant.
WALLS Standard framing is fine to support a tiled wall. The wall must be strong enough to hold
up with the additional weight of tile, adhesive and grout. Use plaster, gypsum board or
moisture resistant portland cement backer boards for most tiling jobs. Plywood and
Gypsum based products are not recommended for wet areas.
COUNTERTOPS Plywood Underlayment:
Total thickness must be at least 3/4 inch and securely bonded. If a new or additional
surface is needed to increase the thickness to 3/4 inch, use approved underlayment grade
plywood or cement backer board. Fasten at 6 inch intervals along the edges and studs
with 1-1/2 inch galvanized roofing nails for cement backer boards or 1-1/4 inch (minimum)
underlayment nails or screws for plywood.
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